GRIDDED FLANNEL FABRIC FULL

Don’t they know who I am? Ugh.Īll this to say, there’s no better way to tell a story than with pictures. Yet, each week when I exit the botox clinic with pout poised, hands raised to cheeks and eyes slightly ajar, expecting an onslaught of flashes, I’m met with nothing! Nothing. I keep calling the paps to let them know I’m primed for my hidden camera shots (ya know, hair and makeup a mess, but composed enough still to look fabulously important).

GRIDDED FLANNEL FABRIC FULL

Of course it will be an A3 coffee table book, full of glossy, unauthorised photos showing me at late night cocktail parties, early dawn sewing sessions, and surrounded by scantily clad Glitterati at all angles. Press open the seams that join the rows.I’m still waiting for the full Molli Sparkles exposé to hit fine book stores everywhere. See the nine-patch tutorial for a full explanation of seam nesting. Because of the way the seams are pressed, the seam allowances will nest together. You can then sew your block rows and your sashing/cornerstone rows together. Repeat so all rows of the quilt are sewn with sashing and corner stones. I then sew the horizontal sashing/cornerstones row that will fit between the first rows of blocks, pressing the sashing seam allowance away from the corner stones. Join below the top row, pressing seam away from the sashed blocks. First I sew the vertical sashing strips to the blocks in the top row. Firstly measure across the top of your quilt for the length of your top and bottom borders – the width is up to you! Then measure the side edge of your quilt and add on the width of your top and bottom borders subtracting 1” that will be taken up in seam allowances when these are added (calculation based on ¼” seams).

As with sashing, borders can be cut on the cross grain or lengthways grain. If you wish to add a border, wait until the sashing has been added and your quilt top is pieced together so you can measure it accurately. For fussy cutting, see this post on the economy square block Sashing fabric – 1/2 metre (or use assorted scraps) – Cut seventeen 1 1/2” x 12 1/2” rectanglesĬorner stones fabric – Fat eighth (or more for fussy cutting) – Cut six 1 1/2” squares. The cutting directions below are for the sashing and cornerstones design in the first diagram above. As I am using scraps, I have cut my strips in both directions according to the different sizes of fabric I was working with. The TIP section from the Log Cabin blocks post explains the effect of cutting strips cross grain or lengthways. Sashing strips can be cut cross-grain (selvedge to selvedge) or you can cut vertical strips on the lengthways grain, following the selvedge. I am using 1 1/2” wide sashing (1” finished) between the blocks and I am not adding a border. You will need to work out how many sashing strips and corner stones you need. Some quilters do this digitally using computer programmes or on a tablet using an app like Touchdraw for this but a quick sketch by hand is just as helpful.

It helps to sketch out your layout complete with sashing and border options so you can clearly see how many different fabric pieces are needed. This also keeps a record of my final arrangement should I suddenly need to tidy away. I move my blocks around and take photos with my phone so I can look at a range of layout options. Quilt blocks will ‘stick’ to the flannel so you can arrange your design vertically. I hook these onto clear Command hooks stuck on to a picture rail. In my sewing room I have a Fons & Porter design wall, which is a large gridded flannel curtain with grommets along the top. Another alternative is to hang a flannel sheet or quilt batting on the wall. A sheet, quilt batting or blanket would also work. I clear a space on my living room floor and put a large foldable cutting board on the floor.

Gridded flannel fabric